Storm Shelter

And a humanitarian mission.

There’s a bit of a sandstorm at the moment. Not the classic wall of dust advancing across the desert but a strong wind blowing sand and dust high into the sky. The haze has blocked out the sun. It’s still stinking hot though, the wind feels like a hair dryer in the face. I have pulled over next to a tree east of the big Erg Chebbi dunes.

This was supposed to be a lunch stop but I’m thinking I’ll camp here, the shelter afforded by the tree is considerable. Also navigating the dunes in these conditions is difficult. The wind is supposed to die down a little tomorrow, so I’ll enjoy the drive more if I can actually see the scenery.

Yesterday I found what I thought was a tent lying on the trail. A stuff sack containing some aluminium poles and some canvas. I knew it must have been dropped by a rider doing that section of the Trans Moroccan Trail. I could feel the pain of arriving at camp and discovering the loss. So I set about trying to find the owner.

I was about 4km north of the Sahara Cafe close to the end of the trail, so that was my first stop. No one there. I ordered a Coke - What is it about cold Coke in a glass bottle? I never touch the stuff normally but that one sure hit the spot - I asked the waiter if any riders had been through. He didn’t speak English so I was reduced to saying ‘moto whilst revving imaginary handlebars’ He told me 3 riders had passed earlier, they didn’t stop.

It was getting late in the day so I had hoped they might have camped nearby, Arfoud the next town showed 2 campsites. I tried the first, no riders. The second had no riders either, I decided to stay, done for the day.

I had posted the missing tent on the TMT Facebook page while I was at the cafe in the hope that someone might get in touch. There had been no update. Disappointed I made use of the pool at the camp. Not bad for £6 a night, pool, bar and restaurant.

———————————————————————————————

These flies are driving me nuts! I’m trying to be at one with the flies, I can handle them on my arms, legs and body.. It’s the face I really struggle with. Swish them away and they are back within the second. One just made an exploratory venture up my right nostril. Eughhh. I’m clearly not the seasoned desert traveller I wish I was.

The hammock I am sitting in is slowly filling with dust, as is the keyboard I am typing on.. Somehow I’m still enjoying this though.

This morning I opened the tent I had found to discover it is actually a camp chair and a set of riders waterproofs. Less essential than the tent but probably still dearly missed. I’ll report back if I ever find the owner.

Erg Chebbi is very commercial these days, I passed numerous hotels under construction and many already in operation. I feel sorry for the current guests, not the day for camel rides in the dunes that’s for sure. I was here in 2006, it was commercial then, but not like this. The dunes are still stunning though. My hopes of catching them on film at golden hour look to be dashed however. Perhaps Erg Chigaga will offer me the chance. For now I’m just going to enjoy my dusty hammock and the flies..

A tumbleweed just rolled past, doing quite a lick actually..